真·鞋门
弱水三千 只取一瓢 此博无他 唯有鞋尔
“真·鞋门”专署Logo   -[我的鞋图 Adidas ]

http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/adilee.bmp

无聊的时候,用几分钟作了一个专属于自己的Adidas Logo.....是变态还是自恋?随你怎么说了。反正我觉得还不算太难看,暂且当作这个Blog的Logo吧,嘿嘿。
要是Adidas真能出这么一款标志就好了……做梦吧!

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-15  14:01:57    编辑    评论(4)    引用(0)
T-MAC 5 进行时   -[T-MAC Adidas 新鞋文 ]

http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/T5.jpg
王府井步行街的Adidas旗舰店外墙,巨人麦迪很鬼魅的在风雨交加的湖中戏球。11月,足球鞋属于猎鹰,篮球鞋属于“T-MAC 5”。
考虑到天然海拔等客观因素,我对篮球运动并不着迷。篮球赛也仅仅是有一搭没一搭的看看而已。因为姚明,火箭队的比赛看得多些(好像也因为电视转播的多些),现在的麦迪在场上无所不能,但那似乎理所应当,我只关注姚明。当麦迪上不了场上,火箭3连败。少了麦迪这个“驾海紫金梁”,姚明这根“擎天百玉柱”成了电线杆子。很多人下了场的时候其重要性表现的更明显。

第一双T-mac发布于2000年,从此每年一款。11月,T-mac 5显身。
http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/tmac501.jpg
“歷代T-MAC鞋款都搭載了嶄新的專業科技與創新的設計元素,T-MAC 5當然也不例外。T-MAC 5是首雙將『球場』包入設計之中,T-MAC表示,”當我們開始設計這雙鞋時,我最想做出一雙可以代表我及我對球賽所投注的熱情的鞋款。因此我們決定去嘗試一些以前籃球鞋從來不曾做過的事情,那就是將『球場』放入球鞋之內。” T-MAC 5在鞋跟及鞋底採用宛如球場材質的設計,增添鞋款的質感;鞋底的木紋上還用雷射蝕刻上T-MAC的簽名,也加強鞋款的獨特性。
除此之外,T-MAC 5鞋款採用更輕量的皮革材質,並且結合geoFIT科技,利用不同的密度泡沫塑料,讓不同的腳型都能獲得安全、舒適的合腳性。除了一般鞋帶以外,鞋面也增加一條如安全帶的魔鬼粘鞋帶,提供完整包覆鞋面,讓將你的雙腳更合宜舒適的固定在鞋裏。再搭載彈性極佳的adiPRENE 和adiPRENE+避震材質,增加鞋款的舒適性及穩定性。所有的專業科技功能都被放入T-MAC 5,只為了提供舒適度最高及專業性最好的籃球鞋。”

http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/tmac502.jpg
“是的,当时就是这样!”
麦迪新的广告很酷,他并不专著的眼神竟流露出一股子颇有天塌下来岿然不动的气质。

Adidas在篮球领域一直就不是Nike的对手,能否抢回一点市场,如日中天的麦迪是关键,这两年是关键。Adidas的宝是否压的准,需时日验证。

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-14  15:57:00    编辑    评论(3)    引用(0)
鞋门书籍   -[周边 图书 鞋门碎碎念 ]

http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/sneakerstccg.jpg

Editorial Reviews
[Book Description]
A definitive and indispensable guide to the very best and most collectible sneaker designs.
Sneakers, trainers, tennis shoes, baskets—wherever you live, whatever you call them, however you wear them, it is impossible to escape this humble shoe's rise to global popularity. Sneakers have moved beyond sports attire to become a fashion staple that simultaneously transcends class and race yet defines who you are in today's urban tribes.
The world of the sneaker collector encompasses a huge international audience passionate for the rarest shoes, the latest designs, or reissued classics in a myriad of colors and materials. This encyclopaedic guide, with more than 500 specially taken color photographs, displays over 180 sneaker designs that have made a mark on sneaker culture worldwide. There are examples to delight both the novice collector and the hard-core sneaker freak, from acknowledged classics like the Converse All Star to the latest Nike Air technology to forgotten styles no longer in production but worthy of modern recognition, such as the Ewing Reflective.
The book features comprehensive reference sections for collectors, including histories of the fourteen leading brands from Adidas to Vans; practical tips on building and caring for a collection; a fully illustrated glossary and chronology; and a directory of shops, resources, and Web sites. Over 500 color illustrations.
[About the Author]
Unorthodox Styles is a London-based creative consultancy, specializing in graphic design, Web design, and photography. It is the producer of Crookedtongues.com, the leading online sneaker resource.

《鞋:收藏指南》,嗯……对于大多数人来说,收藏鞋是不可能滴……那就看看画儿呗。
amazon看看,鞋门的书还真不少。 :)

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-14  12:17:00    编辑    评论(2)    引用(0)
(33/50)——Converse Weapon   -[converse Weapon 50大经典鞋款 ]

http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/weapon01.jpg
目前converse鞋的爱好者分成两大派。一是爱复古Look,认定Converse为潮鞋至尊,君不见时尚杂志的服装展示,上万的小西搂也配All Star。一是爱复古basketball,认定“play hardball”,认定“Weapon”。
“play hardball”是Converse给篮球的定义,这句话很难直译,但联想起当时NBA的风格,估计提倡的是“硬桥硬马”(这也就很好理解为什么他们没能与乔丹达成很好的合作协议,虽然乔丹的篮球是艺术的,在境界上要高过“硬桥硬马”一点点)。
“Weapon”本身就像是对“play hardball”的最好诠释。1986年,为东大鸟(Larry Bird)西魔术(Magic Johnson)量身定制的Converse Weapon(武器)篮球鞋上市。黑白双雄之争激情四射,悬念性远远高过乔丹一统江湖时的万众所归。这二位穿着Weapon把NBA推向前所未有的高度。跟许多人看不上Kobe而死忠Jordan一样,当年很多人也看不上Jordan,他们追随的是魔术大鸟,由二人担纲的“选择你的武器”广告系列顺风顺水的风靡全美,converse在篮球场上的影响力达到空前的强大。
http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/weapon05.jpg
“老一代还健步如飞,新一代就紧紧跟上了”这真是90年代初篮球市场的一个形象描述,罗德曼、斯普瑞维尔、赖德穿着不同款式的Converse征战,风风火火,乔丹、皮蓬、巴克里带着Nike来势汹汹。好一派“如火如荼的喜人景象”。
虽然Kobe最初进入NBA时就是穿的“Weapon”,但Converse还是应该为当时放弃乔丹而检讨,就是那个外形颇似“Weapon”的乔丹一代体现了Nike这个新生代的远见,并且间接导致Converse在瞬息万变的商战中的衰落。2000年1月22日,拥有40多年代理权的美国Converse Inc.向法院依联邦破产法第十一条申请,将生产、销售全面撤退。几个麻省的私人投资者收购了匡威,保留了这个光荣的品牌,2003年7月9日,Nike斥资三亿多美元买下了匡威。
虽然Converse历经几个起伏,但在中国,Weapon一直拥有着较高的认可度,这固然与其“专业篮球鞋”的身份有关,但我认为和价格也有不个分割的联系:质量傲视双星回力,却没有Nike、Adidas那样的天文数标价。
时至今日,和Nike的Air Force 1 一样,Weapon已经演化成了一款SB,离篮球场越来越远了。

罕见图:
http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/weapon03.jpg
http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/weapon04.jpg

“It started in ’79.
Two of the greatest college players ever, did battle on a basketball court in Salt Lake City during the NCAA finals.
Since then, Magic Johnson and Larry Bird have thrilled millions of NBA fans with the most exciting, evenly matched rivalry in hoop history. A rivalry that has culminated in two NBA Championship series . And as Larry and Magic lead their teams to victory this season, they’ll be using their own weapons. The Converse Weapon. And like the players who wear them, these shoes are two of the most dazzing performers on any court.
Choose Your Weapon.”
                       ——Converse卡图片取自CHARLIE'S BLOG!

再生:Converse Loaded Weapon
http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/weapon06.jpg
Loaded Weapon的篮球鞋是Converse被NIKE收购后所推出的第一双篮球鞋,将原来内置在后跟的矽胶垫变成了全新的减震和能量回归系统“魔球”(ICON)。
间架结构还能看到Weapon的影子,只是气质已经大不相同。

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-13  18:34:10    编辑    评论(2)    引用(0)
猎鹰进化史   -[Adidas 鞋门碎碎念 足球鞋 猎鹰 ]

http://huzicha.bokee.com/inc/poall.jpg

1994——Adidas“猎鹰”系列足球鞋的面世。鞋面的橡胶鳍设计带来了惊人的变向性、超强的动力以及良好的控制力。

1995——“猎鹰二代”登上足球运动的舞台。重新设计的橡胶鳍使控球更灵便、稳固,攻击力更强,第一次运用折叠式鞋舌设计。

1996——“猎鹰三代(Touch)”面世。“奇钉”技术使其在控球方面的表现更为突出。折叠式鞋舌在性能改进的基础上,红色的设置开始“猎鹰”系列经典“黑红”配色的岁月。

1998——“猎鹰四代(Accelerator)”亮相法国世界杯。这矿产品构造完美、极其专业的设计,运用了非对称系带系统。

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2000——“猎鹰五代(Precision)”亮相,运用了革命性的可更换奇钉技术,该设计与旋转嵌入式钉的结合。非对称系带系统和新设计的折叠式鞋舌令穿着更舒适,改良的猎鹰技术全面提升转向性、动力以及控制力。

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2002——“猎鹰六代(Mania)”彻底奠定了猎鹰的设计风格。与先前的各系列相比,Mania的转向性更好,穿着更舒适,进攻更有力。运用了分离式外底结构和高密度外部脚跟的设计。2002年世界杯上,约有150名球员选择穿着“Mania”参加比赛。从Mania开始,猎鹰出现了多种配色。

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2004——猎鹰十周年,“猎鹰七代(Pulse)”采用全新科技——PowerPulse 超能脉冲。研究人员发现,较之传统足球靴,猎鹰脉动提高了3%的能量释放,前脚鞋面的重量与密度经精确调整后,拥有最佳着力分布,能在与球接触的瞬间产生最大的动能。小贝专署猎鹰系列从这一带开始出现。

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2005——“猎鹰八代(Absolute)”登场……

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-11  18:06:58    编辑    评论(2)    引用(0)
The astonishing Tiger story——Run like a Tiger   -[ASICS 其他品牌 品牌历史 ]

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Run like a Tiger

The founder of the now well-known shoes and apparel brand ASICS had already led an adventurous life, when in 1949, at the age of 31, he entered a new phase in his life. After years in the military and having worked for a company who bought and sold beer on the black market, Onitsuka decided that sports could play an important role in rebuilding the self-esteem of the youngsters in Japan. He learned how to manufacture shoes and founded Onitsuka Co Ltd. It was the start of a company that would develop into one of the five largest brands in the world market of sports shoes.

Straw sandals

Yukio Matsumoto, head coach of the Kobe High School basketball team, urged Onitsuka to start manufacturing basketball shoes. He strongly believed that basketball would soon become a popular sport in Japan. Onitsuka’s first shoe design resembled a straw sandal rather than a basketball shoe and was greeted with mockery by the school coach.

From that moment on Onitsuka came over to watch the basketball team practice whenever he could. He observed the movements of the feet and started wondering how he could enable the players to make sudden stops and starts.

Suction cups

In the summer of 1951, during a vacation, Onitsuka saw a plate with pickles and octopus legs. He suddenly realised that the suction cups of the octopus could be the key he had been looking for. He used the concept of the suction cups for the sole of the basketball shoes he was working on at the time and took his new shoes to the team. One of the players tried the shoes and the sole design proved so effective that he tumbled and fell when he made a sudden stop. Onitsuka adjusted the shape of the suction cups and he finally had what he wanted: basketball shoes that made it possible to stop and start without slipping.

The support of the coaches and players proved crucial to the success of Onitsuka. When he took samples of his shoes to the sports stores, their first reaction was that they could not do business with him because they only bought from wholesalers. The young entrepreneur then visited the basketball coaches of high schools and showed them his basketball shoes. The coaches were enthusiastic and went with him to the stores to tell them that the students would be wearing Onitsuka shoes from then on. All Onitsuka had to do after that was write down the orders.

Blisters

By 1953 Onitsuka had broadened his interest towards running shoes. Working with top Marathon runner Tooru Terasawa, he decided to try and develop a way to avoid long distance runners getting blisters. The air-cooling system of motorcycles served as an inspiration. He used a loosely woven cloth for the top of the shoes and made a number of holes in the front and the sides. As a result of these measures the feet were now able to “breathe”. In addition Onitsuka designed a two-layered sole to soften the impact. Terasawa tried the shoes on and ran 42 kilometres and 195 metres without blisters for the first time.

Abebe Bikila

It took a little persuasion to get the legendary Ethiopian Marathon runner Abebe Bikila to wear Tiger shoes. As a matter of fact, up until 1957, Abebe didn’t wear shoes at all. When Onitsuka saw Abebe winning the Olympic Marathon in 1956 in Melbourne, Australia, he was worried about the future of his company. Abebe ran barefoot. The next year, when Abebe Bikila ran the Mainichi Marathon in Japan, Onitsuka visited him in his hotel. “Why didn’t you bring your shoes?” Onitsuka asked. “Because I don’t have any”, was the athlete’s answer. After Onitsuka had explained to him that Japanese roads are littered with glass and therefore running bare-foot could be dangerous, Abebe was willing to give the Tiger running shoes a try. Onitsuka hurried back to the factory and gave his technicians the order to manufacture the world’s lightest pair of shoes immediately. The next day Abebe Bikila won the marathon. He wore shoes ever since.

Shares

In 1958 Onitsuka, who had bought the “Tiger” brand a year before, celebrated the 10th anniversary of his company in an astonishing way. He had decided that Onitsuka should not become a family-run business, but an employee-run business. He distributed 70 percent of the shares to his employees. Half of the total capital was handed free of charge to senior employees, in accordance with their achievements. Twenty percent of the capital was offered to younger employees for a fee.

A sound mind in a sound body

Preparing for the 1972 Sapporo Winter Olympics, GTO, manufacturer of sportswear and nets, Jelenk, manufacturer of knit wear and Onitsuka built a regional sales office together on a piece of land near Hokkaido.
It turned out to be the starting point of a historic merger that made an old dream of Kihachiro Onitsuka, a complete sporting goods company, come true. After years of negotiations the deal was finalised towards the end of 1976. In 1977 GTO, Jelenk and Onitsuka merged to form a new, strong and progressive enterprise. To find an appropriate name for their new company, the founders turned to the Ancient Romans and found an old Latin phrase: Anima Sana In Corpore Sano (a sound mind in a sound body). The world of sports welcomed a new, promising name: ASICS

(转贴自:onitsukatiger.com.au

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-11  16:05:52    编辑    评论(0)    引用(0)
Adidas的“贝氏猎鹰”   -[Adidas 猎鹰 足球鞋 鞋门碎碎念 ]

http://sneakers.blogbus.com/files/1131612086.jpg
这可能就是所谓的“贝氏猎鹰第5代”
这就是小贝将于本周末英阿大战上使用的战靴。
新款猎鹰8代,贝氏专署配色。鞋身绣有小贝的签名和他3个儿子的名字——布鲁克林、罗米欧和克鲁兹。
鞋舌上绣有英格兰国旗、交战双方国家名和比赛时间“12/11/05”。

遇重要比赛,Adidas都会在重点球员的战靴上大做手脚:绣制球员转属号码(小贝的7或23、劳尔的7、巴拉克的13、维埃拉的4等等),绣制交战双方名称和比赛时间;甚至还听说曾经绣制过比赛场地的详尽经纬度。
每一次,小贝的鞋都是最花哨的:一般都要还要绣制小贝专署Logo“freekicker”和名字(有时是缩写DB),小“克鲁兹”出生前,两个大儿子的名字有时候还要一直脚一个,着实麻烦。

既然说到了贝克汉姆的球鞋,我就尽己所能,把他的历代Adidas总结一下。一个球员的成长,一个优秀品牌的眼光和品牌塑造过程,以管窥豹,可见一斑。

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1995年4月2日,贝克汉姆首次代表曼联队上场,对手是利兹,穿24号。还是小屁孩儿,爱穿什么穿什么,估计阿迪没注意到他。
95-96赛季小贝的球衣号码变成了10,球鞋固定为adidas。
1996年8月,面对温布尔敦,黄毛小儿来了一个世纪吊射。所谓“那小子真帅”,贝克汉姆成了球星。从那一年起,球鞋鞋舌上面出现了一留字母“beck's”,意为“小贝的”。鞋款为“猎鹰3”

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1998年,与皮埃罗等人出演adidas广告,鞋款为“猎鹰4”。专署球鞋后跟位置出现“Beckham”刺绣。就是这款鞋把阿根廷的西蒙尼“踢”了一个跟头。

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2000年世界杯,成就了另一“猎鹰”大将鲁伊·科斯塔,同为“猎鹰5——precision”,小贝刹羽而归。红白配色的precision感觉很“英格兰”。

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2002年世界杯,鞋款为“猎鹰6——mania”,大儿子“布鲁克林”的名字占了以前父亲的位置,鞋身绣已成小贝准标示的“7”。特别一双香槟色mania出现在英格兰与巴西的1/8比赛中,鞋后跟有日文“加油”字样的这双鞋没能带给小组赛压过(我最爱的)阿根廷的他们好运,被淘汰出局。(阿根廷的艾玛尔当时也是mania的代言人,后来小丑转而代言美津农,可惜。)

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2004年,“猎鹰6”红款出现,两个儿子——布鲁克林和罗密欧——都出现在鞋舌,鞋内侧依然为招牌“7”号,后跟压制小贝姓名缩写“DB”。

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在皇马,他是“23”(“猎鹰”的7号在这里属于劳尔),在国家队,他还是“7”。
2004是“猎鹰”十年,全新的“猎鹰7代——pulse脉冲”出现。这个系列起,小贝彻底告别传统黑红系列,“贝氏猎鹰”接二连三,雨后春笋。

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2004欧洲杯上,小贝红银配色pulse登场,此为“贝氏第一代”,右脚鞋舌上为个性logo,左脚的鞋舌为英格兰国旗。
而后,这家伙开始参与球鞋设计,造出了小贝第二代,也是“猎鹰”历史上配色最难堪的——“太极”:左右脚采用相反的颜色搭配,号称“外观设计灵感则来自亚洲文化,用现代的美学外观诠释太极的理念.其内敛的金属银和跳跃的鲜红在视觉上达到完美平衡,左脚的金属银象征了柔和与力量,右脚的深红色鞋底则代表活力与激情。”(个人觉得过度色的运用是失败中的失败),这鞋售价高达723美金,全球限量723双,编号为1、7、23、723的四双鞋由由小贝自己收藏。其中中国仅销售25双,“Ebay”和“淘宝”的网上小店中,怎么可能出现正品?
而后,不限量的小贝第三代“PredatorPulse Thumbprint(指印)”推出,鞋身纹路采用了贝克汉姆的指纹模型,十分自我。别说,现役球员中还真有人穿这款“指印”,比如米哈伊洛维奇。小贝个人用鞋依然布满各种“信息”,并且又多了三公子克鲁兹的名字。其国家队的比赛用鞋,左脚鞋舌上的“任意球小人”变成了英格兰国旗,右脚依旧。

http://sneakers.blogbus.com/files/1131612074.jpg

据贝克汉姆的“御用”文身师路易斯透露,去年12月,小贝曾经想过在自己的后脑文上一条黑色的龙,但因为在西方国家,“黑龙”有代表邪恶的嫌疑,所以最终放弃了。但贝克汉姆却没有放弃“龙情结”,贝氏第四代“龙靴”(叫这名字有点大逆不道哈)在05年6月出现在中国市场上。“龙靴”以银色为主色调,鞋面两侧绘制的红眼睛银龙(个人觉得十分诡异)。小贝自己说:“我在亚洲有许多球迷,龙在亚洲具有无比崇高的地位,将龙图案设计进球鞋能让我和亚洲球迷的距离拉得更近。”我想……这话更像是Adidas说的。

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-10  16:43:26    编辑    评论(2)    引用(0)
adidas第八代Predator正式发布   -[Adidas 新鞋文 足球鞋 猎鹰 ]


昨天,西班牙,马德里。小贝、里克尔梅、内斯塔、劳尔、卡卡……Adidas旗下Predator系列的代言球星几乎全部到场,甚至包括了近期一直在家养病的齐祖和中国球员郑致(可惜蓝帕德、吉拉德和巴拉克没有显身)。这是didas猎鹰8代“+Predator Absolute”的正式发布会。






看起来,“+Predator Absolute”以两款配色为主:传统的“黑红配”和首次的“金银配”。




小贝一如既往的拥有自己的专署产品(两个星期前,我曾经做过介绍,看这里。)。

本周末的英阿大战上,小贝、里克尔梅、吉拉德、蓝帕德、坎比亚索等人的上场,将是三种配色的猎鹰8代第一次同时出战。

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-09  14:45:00    编辑    评论(0)    引用(0)
(48/50)——Dunlop Green Flash   -[50大经典鞋款 Dunlop ]

http://sneakers.blogbus.com/files/1131443603.jpg

上面这张图片取自“Dunlop Green Flash”的官方网站
“Over 25 Millions”,这是个庞大的数字,尤其是对于一款球鞋的销售量而言,但这是真的,Dunlop Green Flash 1555 做到了。这也使得它成了有史以来销售量最大的Sneakers之一。
实话实说,我是在知道“Over 25 Millions”这个概念后才理解为什么这款Sneaker能够跻身FHM评选的“Top 50”的,因为我至今从没在现实中见过这款鞋。
Dunlop的Logo是总能见到的。轮胎自然有名:1888年,约翰·博伊德·邓禄普发明了充气橡胶轮胎,此发明成为一个半世纪以来英国最重要的24项发明之一,时年,邓禄普创立了世界上第一家橡胶轮胎制造厂。在体育领域,网球场见到Dunlop Logo的几率大一些:远有网坛女皇格拉芙,近有中国选手孙甜甜(使用Dunlop 300G网拍在雅典奥运会上荣获女子双打冠军),他们的网球拍均为Dunlop制造,可是脚上的鞋前者为Adidas,后者是Nike。
作为网球鞋,在1934、1935、1936年,GREEN FLASH的确在赛场上风光过。弗瑞德·佩里(温网的雕像正是为了纪念他)穿着Dunlop Green Flash连拿下了这三届温网冠军。
“after 70 years,it also looks so good”像是广告语,更像是一种情况的真实说明,从上个世纪30年代到70年代,几乎所有的网球爱好者都在穿着这款鞋打球。
为什么全球销量最大却忽略了中国的市场?这是我百思不得其解的一个问题。一旦这款鞋进入中国市场,虽然很有可能出现类似于“大众的Golf轿车能够屡创全球销售佳绩,在中国却得不到认可”这种情况呢?Dunlop公司至少也应该来尝试一下啊……

鞋图:
http://sneakers.blogbus.com/files/1131443666.jpg
“绿光”自然是最经典的。
http://sneakers.blogbus.com/files/1131443798.jpg
Dunlop也出品过“天蓝光”“粉光”“红光”“海蓝光”等等……

Just For Fun:
这里,有一个秃头很“戈硬”的表达了他对Dunlop Green Flash的喜爱。

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-08  17:52:00    编辑    评论(2)    引用(0)
TIPS=(2/N) 当球鞋遇上车   -[鞋门碎碎念 ]


上个月的东京车展上,Nissan展出了一款“为新世代年轻一族”设计的概念车——“Note——note inspired by adidas”。我一向对小日本的汽车风格不感冒,但这次打了个喷嚏:NND!这款车是(我致为推崇的品牌)Adidas与Nissan跨届合作推出的!


“整部車的造型年輕而充滿運動氣息,彷彿就是駕駛者的一件運動外衣一樣……前後保險桿,門邊飾板,輪圈……處處可見運動鞋的影子,這些都是設計師來自adidas網球鞋的靈感……內裝則大量採用了運動服飾的設計概念,多數材質都為運動衣料與橡膠,手套箱甚至還改用拉鍊來開關,相當有趣……而車上都許多部件也都可以依個人喜好更換,展現自我個性的一面。”总之,车身藏满了“三道杆”。

“跨界合作”是目前時尚的一个时尚词,英文应该是“Crossover”。Crossover往往可以强化合作品牌在各自领域“个性品牌”的鲜明印象,现有品牌可以找寻新的卖点,老品牌也可以借势回归。“Crossover”的始作俑者就是一个曾经几近消亡的老品牌——Puma(彪马)。
单纯经营运动品的老品牌PUMA曾经离“死”不远——1993年彪马到了破产的边缘(北京Puma柜台也已寥寥无几),但1994年上任的新CEO Jochen Zeitz合理的应用了一系列崭新的营销方式,并在1999年首先提出了“跨界合作”的概念——与德国高档服饰品牌Jil Sander合作推出高端休闲鞋。也就是说这只“美洲豹”绕过““三道杆”、避开“大弯钩”,跳出了运动品固有范畴,不在功能上与Adidas和Nike等当时的“科技疯子”较劲,转投时尚届,重新“Cool”了起来,以至于后来的强势反弹顺理成章。
即便是车与鞋的Crossover,Puma以前也做过:Puma X 宝马Mini。2003年的时候,Puma专门设计出一款黑色的驾驶用鞋Mini Motion 2 part shoe。这款成为Mini Cooper礼物装备、限产2000双、以120美元的价格在Puma和宝马专卖店出售。“Mini Motion 2 part shoe”采用了鞋中鞋的设计,包括一双适合长途驾驶的柔软的内衬鞋和一双适合户外运动的硬底鞋。宝马Mini在装备礼品鞋的黑色Mini Cooper车身外观打上了Puma Logo。



后来,“Crossover”的概念有了一大帮追随者,比如Adidas与日本品牌Yohji Yamamoto合作推出“Y-3”系列,锐步与香奈尔合作,运动品牌与时尚品牌的结盟成了家常便饭。

即便如此,目前“跨界合作”在国有品牌中使用依然有不地道……“康师傅”X“星球大战”?“班尼路”X“阿童木”?有这个意识,但是总给人感觉有点“父母之意,媒妁之言”的样子,搭配的有点不协调——形式上的结合与品牌精神上的结合还是有很大区别的。就像Jochen Zeitz所说,品牌跨界如同两个品牌的约会或婚姻,“我们找伴侣可不能只看企业规模,得看双方性格是否合得来”。单纯的1+1不是Crossover,大家看到了(我前文中就在用),Crossover的符号是“X”!

阅读全文    胡紫茶  发表于2005-11-08  11:17:58    编辑    评论(0)    引用(0)



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